The day was nice and sunny as we drove the hour or so from Poggio Verde Country Villa to Bergamo, a beautiful hilltop town east of Poggio Verde. We crossed the Adda River, along which one of the group had cycled the previous day (and reported there was a nice path that could be good for a group cycle at some point). We parked in the Piazza Liberta parking area in Bergamo (taking care to avoid driving in the “Zone C” area, which can result in hefty fines) and walked the seven blocks or so to the funicular station, bought our tickets and hopped on for the five-minute ride to the Bergamo Alta Citta (high city).
As we left the funicular and walked up the Via Gombito about 2-3 blocks toward the main piazza, we passed a former marketplace, currently a restaurant, with beautiful vaulted arches. We arrived into the main piazza and were met with an architectural feast for the eyes. We walked up the staircase next to the Palazzo della Ragione and had a look at the view down into the piazza on one side and at the churches and chapels on the other and at the beautiful hills off in the distance.
We had a look (and tried to figure out) the fascinating sundial under the Palazzo della Ragione then walked on to the incredibly beautiful Cappella Colleoni and the Santa Maria Maggiore. We poked our heads into the church, deciding to come back after we found our friends, who were joining us shortly, but we should’ve read the sign… it closes from 12:30-2:30, which is not atypical of monuments in Italy. Something to come back for! We continued to the right, passing the south entrance to the church, and around the corner toward the Tempietto di Santa Croce and the sublime Curia della Auria.
We had not researched Bergamo much, knowing we would be there such a short time, essentially to meet friends coming into Orio al Serio airport (a few minutes from Bergamo), take a quick peek at the piazza and head to lunch in nearby Alme (as “research” for the Food/Wine trips coming in the fall of 2016). So all we knew was to park at Piazza Liberta, follow the signs to the funicular up to the Alta Citta (high city) and get to the main piazza. We certainly didn’t know about going around to the back and enjoying and appreciating the little tempietto – one of our party happened to see a sign and investigate. And we were quite taken aback when we passed through a little door that said “Aula della Curia…”
Leaving the Aula di Curia by a different door we made sure to document how to return next time, also from the main piazza (to the right of the Cappella Colleoni). It was such an unforgettable experience we probably didn’t need the documentation, though… We walked back through the Piazza Vecchia, back down the funicular and to the parking garage, passing some beautiful villas on the way.
From there we drove to nearby Almé where there had been a choice of two Michelin-starred restaurants. Our first choice for price and sense (Frosio) was closed that day so we found the elegant Osteria della Brughiera. We were quite late by that time but the staff were remarkably kind and helpful. There was a 40-euro menu which we all took advantage of and we were served some very, very flavorful food in innovative presentations by excellent staff.
After lunch we drove in the direction of the villa and stopped at the lovely little hilltop village of Montevecchia with the magnificent views and excellent artisanal ice cream shop. It’s about a 12-minute drive from the villa so we enjoy going here more than once on a trip if the opportunity presents itself.
Back at the villa we had another lovely dinner and conversation with the new guests who had arrived that day with many stories of their travels and of living a fascinating life in Bucharest, Romania. Then it was time for a stroll on the grounds at sunset, always an irresistible activity with great rewards!
October. Royal Monza
