Author Archives: Judith Wencel

Day Trip: Lake Lugano, Monte Bré, Cernobbio

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For a day full of beautiful scenery (and a visit to Switzerland!), a drive to Lugano and up to Monte Bré proved to be an excellent choice for a group visiting Poggio Verde Country Villa.

There is a choice to make in driving to Lugano: take the fast motorway (just make sure your car has a “vignette” sticker, or purchase one at the border or a gas station near the border) or take the slow road through all the towns. The motorway is considerably faster, and is highly recommended. If Switzerland is on an agenda for a trip, the vignette can be ordered ahead online here. (Cars rented in Switzerland already have one).

One of the couples had fond memories of visiting Monte Bré many years ago with their then 2-year-old (now 33), and the group was amenable to re-visiting the spot with them. They set the Garmin (which they christened “Guida”) for Monte Bré and followed the directions to begin the long series of steep switchbacks to the top.

Up toward Monte Bré
And even higher toward Monte Bré


Since the day was so clear, the views were quite extraordinary. From the parking lot there was a set of stairs going up, up, up but the group decided to walk on the road to the left of the stairs, toward what they thought was going to be a restaurant. After 10-15 minutes or so, they arrived at an overlook with breathtaking views, where they met up with those stairs they saw earlier leading up from the parking lot. They took some time to enjoy the views and capture some photos. Then the group split up; some turned left to take the stairs further up and some turned right to take the stairs back down to Monte Bré.

The view from the… well, the public restrooms. Cemetery to the left, stairs up and road to the right.
Coffee or a glass of wine from this balcony would be awesome.
The overlook above Monte Bre
Construction on a home up from the little town of Monte Bré
View toward Monte Bré and Lake Lugano beyond
View from the overlook above Monte Bré


At the top of the stairs is a little tower (the Torretta referred to in the signs at the bottom of the stairs) and a tiny church, which also has some wonderful views. There is a restaurant nearby (with a terrace from which there are more stunning views) and just when one starts to wonder how in the world the supplies are delivered to the restaurant up all those stairs, one happens upon a funicular station! It turns out the train comes up the other side from Lugano and makes several stops on the way. This is most decidedly worth investigating on a future trip… the drive up all those switchbacks is exciting but may be a bit too exciting for some. Parking at one of the funicular stations in or just above Lugano and taking the train up sounds like an excellent way to get to the top.

View from the cafe at the top of the funicular to Monte Bre
The church next to the Torretta, at the top of Monte Bre.
Back down the stairs to the parking lot.
Above Lake Lugano
Monte Bre from the stairs to the Torretta
A map of the area posted near the parking lot in the village of Monte Bre
Lake Lugano
Lake Lugano


Driving through Como during rush hour (around 6:00) is not an enjoyable experience. The lovely little lakeside town of Cernobbio was a perfect spot to stop and pass some time until the traffic died down. A restaurant was chosen based on the wine list, the sound of the menu (especially the pizza offerings) and a pleasant outdoor dining area. Before dinner, though, the group walked around the beautiful lakeside piazza and through the very small village. There wasn’t time to visit the gorgeous Villa d’Este this time but it is a highly recommended activity for the future.

Cernobbio (Lake Como)
Beautiful and whimsical veggie garden in Cernobbio
Fountain on the piazza (Cernobbio)
Nice little playground in Cernobbio
Check out the “planters” affixed to the window!
Inviting entrance
Great pizza and other food here – on the main road in Cernobbio
Simple but excellent grilled veggies (at Laghee)!
This pizza was as tasty as it was beautiful (at Laghee)
Another excellent pizza (at Laghee)
Part of the Laghee menu
The wine shop in Cernobbio has excellent Italian wines

Day Trip: Lake Como Greenway, Villa Balbianello

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What a wonderful day full of new discoveries, stunning scenery and good food!

After much investigation on google maps, it was decided to drive toward the Como Greenway, visit Villa Balbianello and maybe Villa Carlotta, then cross to Lugano and return home, perhaps with a stop in the lovely Cernobbio near the famous Villa d’Este hotel if time allows. (This post is about the first half of that trip, which would under normal circumstances make an excellent day trip if Villa Balbianello had been open. For the second half of this day, see the next post).

Soon after breakfast, the group drove northeast in the direction of Como, then north from Como to Tremezzina (the address that was found on a Villa Balbianello site). Some of the GPS devices couldn’t pick up Tremezzina but we later found that Lenno is a better choice. After a couple of wrong turns (and highly amusing attempts to turn two cars around on a very-narrow road) parking was located on the right side of the main road near the little hotel La Provincia. The lake was easily found down a sidewalk between buildings and stunning vista opened up.

Lake Como
Lake Como
The path on the left leads to the lake and our restaurant was on the right

It was getting to be lunch time and the consensus was to find a pizzeria for a casual lunch. The restaurant near the parking spot (L’Osteria #1) advertised pizza but it turns out the ovens are not fired up at lunch. The proprietor insisted he had a far superior kitchen to what could be found on the water, though. There was some discussion among the group whether to dine by the water (with the incredible view) or at the little trattoria with the young and enthusiastic proprietor. He offered to set up a table under a pergola and a return time of 1:00 was set.

The group walked toward the water and found that they were right on the Como Greenway. To the right was the peninsula on which the Villa Balbianello was perched, so the group ambled that way, taking in the extraordinary views of the lake and mountains. The entrance gates to the villa were located and found to be locked. Closed on Mondays. There was a bit of disappointment, of course, but everyone now had a good excuse to return to Lake Como another time.

A map of the Como Greenway
On the Lake Como Greenway in Lenno
Walking toward Villa Balbianello from Lenno
Little ones enjoying Lake Como
Lake Como (Lenno)
On the Como Greenway toward Villa Balbianello from Lenno
View back toward Lenno (on the Como Greenway toward Balbianello)
Closed on Mondays. A perfect excuse to return.

 

Upon return to the lunch spot the group found a table set under the pergola/arbor. The proprietor popped right out and struck up a conversation in heavily-accented English, contributing to the experience. Pasta, fish and other dishes were ordered, along with a decent table wine, and lunch proved to be just delightful, and the food very good. 

Lenno
The excellent La Fabbrica del Gelato is toward the lake and to the right from L’Osteria #1.
Back to the cars for more adventures

After lunch, the group continued north to Menaggio and turned west on SS340 toward Lake Lugano, visited Monte Bré, then Cernobbio (where they had a lovely dinner) and then drove back to Poggio Verde Country Villa. It made for a long day but a wonderful tour for an ambitious group. That part of the day will be posted soon.

 

 

Half-Day Trip to Piani d’Erna

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It was a particularly clear morning and the views toward Milan to the south and Monte Rosa to the northwest were quite something. A quick run was made to Rex Market for picnic provisions (the prosciutto cotto, prosciutto crudo and bresaola from the cured meats section are particularly excellent). Cheese, fruit and wine selections at Rex are also perfect for picnics.

A stunningly clear morning (view to the south)
Cured meats at Rex Market
Monte Rosa in the distance

The 20-minute drive straight north on SS36 goes by Lake Oggiono and Lecco, then it’s helpful to carefully watch for the sign to Piani d’Erna upon exiting the second tunnel after Lecco  as it’s easy to miss the exit. The funicular (cable car) takes visitors up several thousand feet in short order and the views over Lake Lecco toward the Grigna mountains are quite beautiful.

It’s a beautiful little walk from the Funicular to the overlook. Brave visitors can also take the walk out to the scary promontory; it drops precipitously for thousands of feet on either side. Back toward the funicular there’s a “Sentiero Natura”, or nature trail, that leads to another beautiful walk. See more photos of Piani d’Erna in a previous post.

Trail to Piani d’Erna
Explanation of the depth of area lakes
The promontory
Climbers coming up another way
Piani d’Erna
Piani d’Erna
View from the Funicular exit at the top

After an hour or two at Piani d’Erna, it’s a good idea to stop in at the excellent Pasticceria Fumagalli in the little town of Barzanò for a gelato, and perhaps to pick up a dessert for dinner. Or if the timing is right for an aperitivo, that’s an excellent choice, as well. The bar snacks are particularly tasty here.

The south terrace outside the kitchen of Poggio Verde Country Villa is such a wonderful spot for gathering and chatting.

Afternoon siesta on the south terrace
Setting the table
Ready for dinner

 

Working up an appetite with a few more rounds of pre-dinner bocce:

Bocce and Badminton at the villa

 

Another wonderful dinner was prepared and enjoyed under the lovely “Portico Coperto”.

Prepping the grilled octopus
Octopus – a new taste for most of the group
Portico Coperto
View at sunset
Beautiful view

 

 

Lunch at Dac a Trá, Afternoon Enjoying Poggio Verde

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There were visitors to pick up at Malpensa so guests enjoyed coffee on the terrace until it was time to go.

Morning coffee outside the kitchen
The beautiful dining room in the morning light
A detail at the top of the stairs

As soon as the new guests got settled, the group departed for lunch at Dac a Trá, a starred Michelin restaurant that seemed worth a try, considering it was about a 10-minute drive from the villa. It was wonderful! The food was fresh and nicely prepared, the service was excellent and the price for lunch was a remarkable 25 euros, including a glass of wine. Highly recommended.

Dac a Trá
The first courses were first-rate
Beautiful church a few yards from the restaurant
War Memorial in the little town
The view outside the entrance to Dac a Trá

Since lunch was on the later side, the group ambled on the grounds of Poggio Verde and read, caught up on e-mail, etc., and eventually pulled out the badminton and bocce before dinner.

Photo op with signs found in the “garage”
An interesting door in the garage
“No access”
The view from the end of the garden toward Barzanò
In the Roccolo area behind the villa
Corner of the Roccolo
The Roccolo
Such a beautiful evening
View from the terrace toward Milan

The badminton and bocce were located and put to good use before another excellent dinner enjoyed on the Portico Coperto.

Post-badminton champagne on the 2nd terrace
A stunning sunset. Monte Rosa just barely visible

Arrival, Rex Market, Montevecchia

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A wonderful group of guests arrived recently from Kansas, Oklahoma and Michigan for a five-day stay at Poggio Verde and by all accounts they enjoyed themselves thoroughly! The first couple arrived on a Friday, got settled in and took a few photos of the beautiful villa.

Checking the kitchen garden
Ready for the chef
The second and third terraces (pool under renovation)
The south terrace of the villa
The view from the master bedroom
Gardenias on the terrace of the master bedroom
Checking the flowers on the terrace outside the master bedroom
The south terrace
Unloading in the courtyard

While waiting for the second couple to arrive, one of the guests took a walk down the road outside the gates to get a closer look at the wildflowers she had passed on the way in. They were in full bloom!

Wildflowers in the field outside the gate
Interesting one
More wildflowers

The second couple arrived and after settling in a bit, the group made a run to Rex Market for provisions. They arrived around 2:00 and discovered that Rex is closed mid-day so they made a quick little visit to Montevecchia, the lovely hilltop village about ten minutes from the market (15 from Poggio Verde). The Gelateria in the center of town turned out to be excellent!

The second couple arrives
Chatting on the terrace
Rex hours of operation (Mon-Fri 8:30-1:00 and 2:30-7:30; Sat all day, Sun 8:30-1:00)
Garden near the parking lot of Montevecchia
Another view of a garden in Montevecchia
Lots of options for walking trails from Montevecchia
Go that way… under the tunnel
The Hannings
The stairs to the church. Great views!
Outside the church in Montevecchia
Excellent options at the little gelato shop in Montevecchia
Nice poster in the Gelateria
The Hannings at Montevecchia
The courtyard of the villa in Montevecchia

After picking up provisions, dinner was started while it rained heavily outside. The rain stopped just in time to grill the lamb chops! After dinner it was barely drizzling so the group took a little walk around the grounds before an early bedtime to de-jetlag.

Preparing the base for the second course
Lamb chops for a first course
Starting the potatoes
Sunset after a nice cleansing rain
Grilling the lamb chops outside the kitchen
Final prep of the lamb chops
Fish with tomatoes and fennel
View from the “Portico Coperto”
View of the south side of the villa from the Portico Coperto
Nice image from the top of the stairs to the second terrace
A corner of the villa
View from the Roccolo
Roses growing at the corner of the Roccolo
Walking near the Roccolo

A Day in the Vineyards near Poggio Verde

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Last weekend Luigi and I enjoyed a day strolling through the lovely Val Curone just 20 minutes from Poggio Verde.  It’s a protected valley dotted with farms and vineyards in the setting of the Italian pre-Alps: the perfect place to spend a pretty winter day.

Immagine

We had lunch at Oasi di Galbusera Bianca, a charming Agriturismo located in a WWF “Oasis for Biodiversity”, surrounded by a dynamic organic farm. We enjoyed a simple but delicious meal in the cozy atmosphere, close to a welcoming fireplace. Beyond the restaurant, there’s also a country-style bar where you can taste organic snacks, cold dishes and locally made sorbets.  We tasted the local wine made by the nearby vineyard La Costa, a surprisingly crisp and clean white wine called La Brigante made with the Chardonnay and Incrocio Manzoni grape varieties.  We’ll be visiting the La Costa winery very soon to pick up some bottles for Poggio Verde!

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The location is surrounded by the Regional Nature Reserve of Montevecchia and the Curone Valley .  After lunch we took advantage of this enchanting place and had a relaxing walk amongst the vineyards along well-marked trails. There are various trails for all tastes, and we were overtaken by a mountain bike or two. Our cousins the birders (Peters 1 + 2, Susie and Connie, you know who you are!) would have gone wild with all the feathered wildlife around.  Next time I hope to come with them!                                                                         –    Gretchen

Gretchen in the Vineyards in Parco Curone

Christmas is Coming…

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Gather your family or a group of like-minded friends and consider adding “Trip to Northern Italy” to your Christmas list! Focus on a certain theme – like golf, hiking or walking, cooking, dining, wine-tasting, painting, photography, art & culture, cycling, shopping – or arrange for a custom trip that includes a bit of several different activities. Day trips to famous wine-growing regions (fabulous lunch included) or maybe a 2-hour train ride into the Swiss Alps for a stunning panoramic view and a lovely lunch? Or maybe to the elegant villas of Lake Como?

Contact us at poggioverdevilla@gmail.com for more information. Or join our mailing list and “like” our Facebook Page for updates.

Behind the Church at Montevecchia

The view of one of the stations of the cross behind the church at Montevecchia, 15 minutes from Poggio Verde.

Ready for Guests

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September and October have been busy months; we’ve gotten our Homeaway site established, set up a Facebook Page, spiffed up the website and received our first official guests.

Two groups of friends from Nashville, Los Angeles, New Jersey, Colorado Springs, Chattanooga and Kansas reported having a wonderful time not only in and around the villa itself but also visiting Lake Como (including Villa d’Este), Piani d’Erna, Milan, Lugano and Montevecchio. They tried some of the local restaurants and had good reports there, too. Each couple combined their visits to Poggio Verde with visits to other lovely spots like Florence, Venice, Cinque Terre, Bolzano, Tuscany, Rome, London and Paris. Planes, trains and automobiles!

These photos were taken at Poggio Verde and Montevecchia, the wonderful tiny community with the church up on a ridge about 15 minutes from Poggio Verde:

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