Hike to San Pietro al Monte

On a beautiful September day, a group drove from Poggio Verde Country Villa to Civate, about 20 minutes from the villa, parked along a street and began walking, following the signs for San Pietro al Monte, an 11th century church and oratorio on the site of what used to be a monastery complex believed to have been founded in about 700 AD.

The walk to the beginning of the path gained a few hundred feet in altitude and passed a newly-built “rifugio” that is very likely filled with visitors enjoying picnics and a nice view on weekends and during the summer. It would be a good spot to fill up a water bottle, too. As the group continued on up, they passed a very likely-looking restaurant that might be worth checking into on the way back down, which might be right around lunchtime.


The beginning of the path was paved with stones and and fairly flat but it wasn’t long until the it began to climb at a greater angle and became bumpier. (Hiking boots or tennis shoes with good support are a good idea.) After about an hour of hiking, much of which essentially began to feel like stair-climbing, the gate to the complex came into view and then the Oratorio of St. Benedict. A few steps later and the view opens up over lakes and across to the Grigna, and the beautiful San Pietro al Monte comes into view. Up the steps to the entrance of the church provide an even better vantage point for the magnificent view.


The group found the doors to the church locked but thoroughly enjoyed the beautiful “porch” area and its stone arches just outside the door. After taking in the views from that vantage point, the group walked back down the steps and found a spot on the lawn for a little rest before heading back down the path.


One of the group went to find a restroom (they are on the back side of the church, to the right of the steps down some stairs) and as he passed by he noticed that the doors to the church had been opened so the group went up to have a look. The main level of the church has some beautiful old frescoes and some stairs lead down to a crypt, which is also beautiful.


It was indeed lunchtime when the group reached the bottom so a table was chosen on the outdoor patio where they had a simple but very good lunch with housemade pasta and locally-grown or produced ingredients. It would be worth planning a hike around, either at the beginning or end.


As an aside, one of the Fitbit-wearing members of the group noted that the hike was recorded as 135 sets of stairs and about 16,000 steps. 🙂

Day Trip: Lake Como Greenway, Villa Balbianello

What a wonderful day full of new discoveries, stunning scenery and good food!

After much investigation on google maps, it was decided to drive toward the Como Greenway, visit Villa Balbianello and maybe Villa Carlotta, then cross to Lugano and return home, perhaps with a stop in the lovely Cernobbio near the famous Villa d’Este hotel if time allows. (This post is about the first half of that trip, which would under normal circumstances make an excellent day trip if Villa Balbianello had been open. For the second half of this day, see the next post).

Soon after breakfast, the group drove northeast in the direction of Como, then north from Como to Tremezzina (the address that was found on a Villa Balbianello site). Some of the GPS devices couldn’t pick up Tremezzina but we later found that Lenno is a better choice. After a couple of wrong turns (and highly amusing attempts to turn two cars around on a very-narrow road) parking was located on the right side of the main road near the little hotel La Provincia. The lake was easily found down a sidewalk between buildings and stunning vista opened up.

It was getting to be lunch time and the consensus was to find a pizzeria for a casual lunch. The restaurant near the parking spot (L’Osteria #1) advertised pizza but it turns out the ovens are not fired up at lunch. The proprietor insisted he had a far superior kitchen to what could be found on the water, though. There was some discussion among the group whether to dine by the water (with the incredible view) or at the little trattoria with the young and enthusiastic proprietor. He offered to set up a table under a pergola and a return time of 1:00 was set.

The group walked toward the water and found that they were right on the Como Greenway. To the right was the peninsula on which the Villa Balbianello was perched, so the group ambled that way, taking in the extraordinary views of the lake and mountains. The entrance gates to the villa were located and found to be locked. Closed on Mondays. There was a bit of disappointment, of course, but everyone now had a good excuse to return to Lake Como another time.

 

Upon return to the lunch spot the group found a table set under the pergola/arbor. The proprietor popped right out and struck up a conversation in heavily-accented English, contributing to the experience. Pasta, fish and other dishes were ordered, along with a decent table wine, and lunch proved to be just delightful, and the food very good. 

After lunch, the group continued north to Menaggio and turned west on SS340 toward Lake Lugano, visited Monte Bré, then Cernobbio (where they had a lovely dinner) and then drove back to Poggio Verde Country Villa. It made for a long day but a wonderful tour for an ambitious group. That part of the day will be posted soon.

 

 

Half-Day Trip to Piani d’Erna

It was a particularly clear morning and the views toward Milan to the south and Monte Rosa to the northwest were quite something. A quick run was made to Rex Market for picnic provisions (the prosciutto cotto, prosciutto crudo and bresaola from the cured meats section are particularly excellent). Cheese, fruit and wine selections at Rex are also perfect for picnics.


The 20-minute drive straight north on SS36 goes by Lake Oggiono and Lecco, then it’s helpful to carefully watch for the sign to Piani d’Erna upon exiting the second tunnel after Lecco  as it’s easy to miss the exit. The funicular (cable car) takes visitors up several thousand feet in short order and the views over Lake Lecco toward the Grigna mountains are quite beautiful.

It’s a beautiful little walk from the Funicular to the overlook. Brave visitors can also take the walk out to the scary promontory; it drops precipitously for thousands of feet on either side. Back toward the funicular there’s a “Sentiero Natura”, or nature trail, that leads to another beautiful walk. See more photos of Piani d’Erna in a previous post.


After an hour or two at Piani d’Erna, it’s a good idea to stop in at the excellent Pasticceria Fumagalli in the little town of Barzanò for a gelato, and perhaps to pick up a dessert for dinner. Or if the timing is right for an aperitivo, that’s an excellent choice, as well. The bar snacks are particularly tasty here.

The south terrace outside the kitchen of Poggio Verde Country Villa is such a wonderful spot for gathering and chatting.

 

Working up an appetite with a few more rounds of pre-dinner bocce:

 

Another wonderful dinner was prepared and enjoyed under the lovely “Portico Coperto”.

 

 

Wine tasting in Franciacorta

332_332_franciacorta_vinoFranciacorta, the wine country near the lovely Lake Iseo, is one of Italy’s best kept secrets for wine lovers. Franciacorta´s bubblies are considered to be the crème de la crème of sparkling wines in Italy: In 1995 Franciacorta was given D.O.C.G. (Denomination of Origin Controlled and Guaranteed) status, a significant testimonial to its winemakers’ continuing commitment to excellent work and to further improving the quality of Franciacorta wines.

Not only is this region the perfect wine tasting excursion from Poggio Verde as it is just about an hour drive: it is also a natural and cultural enclave where all your tastes for art, history and the outdoor life can be gratified. The lures of the place are indeed many and varied: as much spectacular nature as anyone could ever want, Lake Iseo and its marvelous island, castles  and much more.

Here you can find some hints to orient yourself in the kingdom of wine.

 

Ca’ del Bosco opens its cellars for tours designed to give wineFranciacorta - CadelBosco enthusiasts first-hand knowledge of how Franciacorta is made and to guide them around the vineyards at the winery. A walk through the Ca’ del Bosco barrique cellars, historic repositories of art and innovation, takes visitors to the Cupola. Here, at the heart of the estate, a glass of wine awaits to reveal the secrets behind a great passion. Via Albano Zanella, 13 – Erbusco (BS) Phone: +39 030 7766111  Email: cadelbosco@cadelbosco.com

 

 

franciacorta - la montinaLa Montina has always been an open cellar:  wine lovers who come on guided tours with ‘degustazione’ (wine tasting) are welcomed. You will be told about the Franciacorta’s complex journey from vineyard to bottle and you will discover the passion, history and hard work that goes into every elegant and persistent bubble of our sapid and wonderfully fresh Franciacorta. Moreover, La Montina has been recognised  as having the highest standards for welcoming and accommodating visitors of all the estates In Franciacorta. Via Baiana, 17 – 25040 Monticelli Brusati (BS) Phone: +39030653278

 

 

Contadi Castaldi, a winery which originally was a brickyard, icontadi castladis highly specialized company in the art of innovation, which searched the Franciacorta region to find the most evocative vineyards and the most passionate winegrowers.  Its large spaces and long tunnels where the bricks were fired proved to be the perfect place for ageing Franciacorta vintages and welcoming wine lovers. Via Colzano, 32, 25030 Adro, Franciacorta (Brescia) Phone: +39 030 745 0126 Email: contadicastaldi@contadicastaldi.it

 

 

 

franciacorta - il mosnelOne of the loveliest historic wineries in the Franciacorta appellation, Il Mosnel Winery produces a range of excellent still wines and Bollicine (“Bubbles”). it’s a beautiful historic estate located near the medieval village of Rodengo.This winery could be one of your favorite wineries in Franciacorta for the quality of the wines, the beauty of the estate and the hospitality. Via Barboglio, 14 – 25040 Camignone – Brescia (BS) Phone: +39.030.653117

 

 

Another top-quality winery is Berlucchi, where a professionafranciacorta - berlucchil guide will accompany you as you discoverall of the places where Franciacorta’s history was written, those halls, alcoves, and underground passages where tradition and innovation meet and shake hands. Of course, to fully enjoy this moment of relax you can taste and savour Berucchi’s fine selection of Franciacorta. Piazza Duranti, 4, 25040, Corte Franca (BS), Phone:  +39 030 984381 Email: info@berlucchi.it

 

 

Bersi Serlinifranciacorta - bersi selini is one of the oldest wineries in Franciacorta. The location is stunning, close to Lake Iseo and set amid picturesque vineyards, where you can’t miss the chance to taste an excellent glass of wine. The winery and hospitality area has been renovated by Italian designer Flavio Albanese, giving the impressive property a modern and luminous appearance through the use of glass and wood that is striking and contemporary. Via Cerreto 4 and 7 , Provaglio d’Iseo (Bs) 25050, Italy. Phone: +39 0309823338 Email: info@bersiserlini.it

 

Expo 2015 is HERE!

Expo has opened!! Until October 31st this outstanding exposition on how the countries of the world are working on the issue of “Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life” is being visited by millions of people from all over the world!

expogate

Expo 2015 is open not only in the Exposition site but also in the historic heart of Milan, through ExpoGate, both a meeting and entertainment space and an information point for citizens and tourists in Milan. This location symbolizes the role as a gateway between Milan and the Expo, in the same way as Milan has always been considered a bridge between Italy and the rest of the world.

Milan and its region, Lombardy, are proud to host such an important event and can’t wait for all the visitors to come and visit. In fact, beyond the pavilions of the fair, there are many thrilling experiences and interesting trips in the amazing surrounding region which make Milan a top destination during the Expo period, with many not-to-be-missed events. 

Indeed, expo duomothe city has undergone a process of renovation, becoming a modern European city while maintaining the ancient splendor. Even some of the main attractions of the city will change their look for the occasion. The Duomo, after a huge restructuring operation, will reopen its “Museo del Duomo”. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, the historic gallery arcade completed in 1877 is the oldest shopping mall in the world, during the Expo will be exceptionally opened until late in order to host a large number of cultural and gastronomic events.

The artistic and cultural heritage of Milan is on full display, as well: among the many exhibitions and museums of the city, don’t miss The Last Supper and Leonardo in Milan (an exhibition of Leonardo’s work during his 25 years spent in Milan) and an exhibition about Caravaggio, which was planned for 2010 and will be repeated on the occasion of Expo. Moreover, others great exhibitions about the Expo’s theme are programmed at the Triennale and Pinacoteca di Brera.

Lastly, if you are interested in fashion and design, sports, music and theatre, you will certainly have plenty of special events connected with the theme of Expo as well.

Arrival, Rex Market, Montevecchia

A wonderful group of guests arrived recently from Kansas, Oklahoma and Michigan for a five-day stay at Poggio Verde and by all accounts they enjoyed themselves thoroughly! The first couple arrived on a Friday, got settled in and took a few photos of the beautiful villa.

While waiting for the second couple to arrive, one of the guests took a walk down the road outside the gates to get a closer look at the wildflowers she had passed on the way in. They were in full bloom!

The second couple arrived and after settling in a bit, the group made a run to Rex Market for provisions. They arrived around 2:00 and discovered that Rex is closed mid-day so they made a quick little visit to Montevecchia, the lovely hilltop village about ten minutes from the market (15 from Poggio Verde). The Gelateria in the center of town turned out to be excellent!

After picking up provisions, dinner was started while it rained heavily outside. The rain stopped just in time to grill the lamb chops! After dinner it was barely drizzling so the group took a little walk around the grounds before an early bedtime to de-jetlag.

Monza: The Iron Crown and the Cathedral of Monza

After visiting the top highlights in Milan and the Lakes, make time to visit the hidden gems of Nothern Italy. One of the spots deserving a visit is Monza.

monza cathedral
The Cathedral of Monza, a magnificent medieval building of white and green marble, has great artistic and historic value. This is not surprising if you take a look at the elegant facade, influenced by the Gothic pattern typical of Pisa, and at the interiors, especially the frescoes.

Inside the Cathedral, the Chapel of Teodolinda is particularly famous for the Iron Crown that is enshrined here.

 

 

 

Corona_Ferrea

 

The Iron Crown, made in the Middle Ages, is both a reliquiary and one of the oldest royal insignia of Christendom. It was used  until the nineteenth century for the coronation of the Kings of Italy. This treasure consists of a circlet of gold fitted around a central iron band, traditionally tought to be forged with one of the nails used for the crucifixion of Jesus Christ .

 

 

If you are intrigued by the history of the Iron Crown, I suggest you to watch this old Italian movie, “The Iron Crown”, which tells a fantastic story about the arrival of the Crown in Italy.

A Day in the Vineyards near Poggio Verde

Last weekend Luigi and I enjoyed a day strolling through the lovely Val Curone just 20 minutes from Poggio Verde.  It’s a protected valley dotted with farms and vineyards in the setting of the Italian pre-Alps: the perfect place to spend a pretty winter day.

Immagine

We had lunch at Oasi di Galbusera Bianca, a charming Agriturismo located in a WWF “Oasis for Biodiversity”, surrounded by a dynamic organic farm. We enjoyed a simple but delicious meal in the cozy atmosphere, close to a welcoming fireplace. Beyond the restaurant, there’s also a country-style bar where you can taste organic snacks, cold dishes and locally made sorbets.  We tasted the local wine made by the nearby vineyard La Costa, a surprisingly crisp and clean white wine called La Brigante made with the Chardonnay and Incrocio Manzoni grape varieties.  We’ll be visiting the La Costa winery very soon to pick up some bottles for Poggio Verde!

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The location is surrounded by the Regional Nature Reserve of Montevecchia and the Curone Valley .  After lunch we took advantage of this enchanting place and had a relaxing walk amongst the vineyards along well-marked trails. There are various trails for all tastes, and we were overtaken by a mountain bike or two. Our cousins the birders (Peters 1 + 2, Susie and Connie, you know who you are!) would have gone wild with all the feathered wildlife around.  Next time I hope to come with them!                                                                         –    Gretchen

Gretchen in the Vineyards in Parco Curone

Klein/Fontana at Palazzo Reale in Milan

Luigi and I visited the fascinating Klein/Fontana exhibit at the Museo del ‘900 in piazza Duomo. Klein was a ground-breaking French artist who during his short life changed perceptions about pure color and used his iconic blue pigment in striking works of performance art and minimalist art. Lucio Fontana was an important mentor and collector. The exhibit ends 15 March. http://www.museodelnovecento.org/en/le-mostre/presente-menu/581-klein-fontana.

We enjoyed the exhibit and were glad we weren’t in the long lines in front of the Palazzo Reale to see Picasso!

Christmas is Coming…

Gather your family or a group of like-minded friends and consider adding “Trip to Northern Italy” to your Christmas list! Focus on a certain theme – like golf, hiking or walking, cooking, dining, wine-tasting, painting, photography, art & culture, cycling, shopping – or arrange for a custom trip that includes a bit of several different activities. Day trips to famous wine-growing regions (fabulous lunch included) or maybe a 2-hour train ride into the Swiss Alps for a stunning panoramic view and a lovely lunch? Or maybe to the elegant villas of Lake Como?

Contact us at poggioverdevilla@gmail.com for more information. Or join our mailing list and “like” our Facebook Page for updates.

Behind the Church at Montevecchia

The view of one of the stations of the cross behind the church at Montevecchia, 15 minutes from Poggio Verde.